By Patrick F. Cannon
The other day, a friend mentioned visiting Jackson Park’s Wooded Island. Just south of the Griffin Museum of Science and Industry, the island was conceived by park designer Frederick Law Olmstead as an oasis of tranquility in the midst of the bustling 1893 Columbian Exposition. In the event, it became home for the Japanese government exhibit, including the famous Ho-o-den temple complex.
It and the Griffin Museum building were among the few structures to survive the fair. Over the years, the Ho-o-den deteriorated but was restored in the 1930s with Depression-era public works funds. During World War II it was destroyed in a fire that may have been caused by anti-Japanese feeling caused by Pearl Harbor and other events.
After my family moved to Chicago’s South Shore neighborhood in late 1945, Wooded Island became part of our (my brother and neighborhood kids) Jackson Park playground. We lived across from the park’s golf course. A short walk through the trees were the 7th hole fairway and the short par 3 8th hole, whose tee shot was over a stream. We got a set of basic golf clubs the next Christmas, and I’ve been a duffer ever since.
Also nearby was the Jackson Park Yacht Harbor, home of the Jackson Park Yacht Club on one side and the Coast Guard station on the other. This and the adjacent inner harbor were part of Olmstead’s original park design. For us, in addition to the neat boats moored there, there was the hulk of a replica Santa Maria, sailed from Spain with the Nina and Pinta as part of Spain’s exhibit at the 1893 fair. It sat near the club, and we managed to get aboard once, only to be chased off by a club employee! The club is still there, but the hulk is gone.
Near the club house was and is the La Rabida Children’s Hospital. Although much expanded now, it was once housed in a replica of Spain’s La Rabida Convent, also built for the fair. We used to bring our used comic and other books there as donations. Although most of the patients were being treated for rheumatic fever, they also had polio patients. Some were in iron lungs. When I hear anti-vaxxers rail against vaccines, I wonder if they’ve ever seen pictures of a kid in one of them?
Another favorite playground was the (now) Griffin Museum of Science and Industry. In those days, entry was free! Well, almost free – you did have to pay 10 cents to go down to the coal mine! It’s still there. And I think you did have to pay 5 cents to see a silent comedy in the Nickelodeon. I also remember a giant heart you could walk through; planes hanging from the ceiling; a huge model train layout (there’s a newer one now); and a Bell Telephone exhibit where you could see yourself on TV! Oh, and a lower level with wonderful ship models.
Wooded Island is in the lagoon just south of the museum. As I recall, there were still some leftover ruins from the fire; otherwise, the island was unkempt and unloved. Of course, we thought it was great. You could pretend you were in Sherwood Forest, a jungle, or the wild west. Kids made up their own games in those innocent days. In the winter, we prayed for snow! There were forts to be built and snowball battles to be fought!
Now, thank goodness, the island has been transformed as a nature preserve, with native plants, flowers, and a Japanese garden. It’s a birder’s paradise, with approximately 250 species having been identified, both permanent residents and migraters in Spring and Fall. Paved paths circle the island, with other paths providing access to the interior. Unfortunately, the view from the island to the West has been marred by the construction of the Obama Presidential Center, built in park land and whose tower I hereby christen “The Sore Thumb.”
It’s an interesting comment on Chicago that former President Obama got his center on actual park land, and the Bears will likely not get their new stadium on what is now a parking lot. Go figure.
Copyright 2024, Patrick F. Cannon
After I retired, to indulge in the free time I finally had, I would throw my bike in the car and drive to Montrose Point, where, back then at least, you could park without paying for the privilege. From Montrose Point, I would then pedal south along the Lakefront Trail, through downtown and past McCormick’s Place to Promontory Point and Jackson Park.
Montrose Point was an interesting destination in itself. Its harbor was a great spot for anglers fishing for perch, lake trout and the elusive muskie, while its bird sanctuary was a pilgrimage site for bird watchers hoping to glimpse a Black-throated Green Warbler in spring migrations. The sanctuary, locally known as The Magic Hedge, also served as a hot spot for gay cruising, where men of that persuasion could be seen lurking about with furtive glances. Montrose Point offered something for everyone, but I digress.
After reading Lawson’s Devil in the White City, I started searching out vestiges of the Columbian Exposition. Exploring Jackson Park was well worth the ride, but except for the Science and Industry museum, a half-size replica of the great Statue of the Republic, and the revived Japanese Garden on Wooded Island, there wasn’t much left. A pretentious and pointless sculpture by Yoko Ono, today somehow occupies the space where the Ho-o-den once stood. Some say the sculpture is a companion piece for Obama’s Finger of Hope edifice nearby.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
I did find a few remnants of the exposition scattered about. There was a structure or part of one that had been moved from the fair to a spot in an alley just east of Unity Temple in Oak Park. It may no longer be there. Another, which I discovered after years of walking past it almost every day, was a small ticket or information booth from the fair. You may know this, but it’s located on the property of the Hills-DeCaro House in Oak Park:
I wonder if Wright or the owners put it there. It fits!
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The Hills-DeCaro structure was placed by a former owner, not Wright. The current owner has had it nicely restored. There’s also a “comfort station” in Jackson Park that dates to the fair — some say it even pre-dates it. Yoko? Oh, no!
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Should have assumed Wright didn’t put it there. He’d never suffer to mix such inferior workmanship with his.
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